Chateau d’Yquem with Winetourbooking

I had the great good fortune to visit a legendary estate: Chateau d’Yquem ( note not Chateau Yquem, which most people say!). So much has been written about this superb wine that to add yet more superlatives would be redundant. Certainly I could go on forever about the magnifient 14th Century building, overlooking the Sauternais region, surrounded by 105 hectares of vineyards… but quite enough has been said about all that already. On the other hand, whilst there I did discover one of those little idiosyncrasies which make each of our wine estates so unique and such a delight to visit. I was walking around, turned a corner, and suddenly saw an antenna planted in the middle of a lawn, rather like a lonely cep mushroom. I learned that it is a French meteorological bureau ( Météo France ) station. While this information may seem a bit irrelevant it is anything but, since the antenna is a vital tool in the management of the delicate wine the chateau produces. Only the Chateau d’Yquem vineyard has their own antenna, so they can collect meteorological data with absolute precision, and it’s right in the middle of the estate. Assessing data like rainfall, temperature, or water levels is treated empirically so they can tell exactly what’s most likely to happen next, and when, in their wine production calendar. It also makes it possible to look back over 100 years and discover, day by day, what climatic conditions prevailed on the estate and to compare them. Each vintage is analysed meteorologically and by comparing them the proprietors can see what actions to take in the vintage in progress. Look at these graphs and it’s easy to realise why certain vintages were so exceptional (notably 1921, 1937, 2001…) and, on the other , (1952, 1972, 1992…).

At the critical moment of harvesting, when each day and even each hour count, the antenna means they can plan minutely. Knowing the likely rain and temperature to come, they can work out windows of opportunity for the harvest and how long they’re likely to last. Knowing what the weather is going to be is certainly not the only reason that this is such a favourite wine, but it does show the attention to detail that is a prerequisite in the creation of top wines. At Chateau d’Yquem nothing is left to chance and, even if the weather is notoriously capricious, they’ll be more aware of what’s likely to happen than anyone. If you’re ever lucky enough to visit Chateau d’Yquem, don’t hesitate to ask to see the meteorological charts. It’s a great way to understand some of the complex issues involved in making a great wine.